What Is Desincrustation? Unclogging the Truth About Congested Pores

Thea Christie

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Thea Christie, January 19, 2024. Updated on Oct 28, 2025

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Desincrustation, a term familiar to skin care experts but less known outside the spa world, is a process for deeply cleansing pores and preparing the skin for extractions. This technique involves applying a unique solution to help unclog congested skin, which is particularly beneficial for acne-prone or oily skin types. By removing blockages that could lead to acne, desincrustation is essential for addressing problem skin. Read on and find out more about the specifics of desincrustation and its benefits. 

Quick Guide: Desincrustation 

Desincrustation is a professional skin care treatment used to deeply cleanse congested pores, especially in oily or acne-prone skin. It works by applying an alkaline solution that softens and breaks down sebum, making extractions easier and helping skin care products absorb more effectively. 

Key benefits include: 

  • Softens sebum and unclogs pores to prepare for extractions 
  • Improves skin texture and appearance by removing impurities 
  • Enhances absorption of follow-up treatments 

When to avoid: Desincrustation is not suitable for cystic or inflammatory acne, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis, irritated skin, or open wounds. 

Professional tips: Start with a thorough cleanse, apply the desincrustation solution for 3 minutes, avoid over-massaging, remove completely and finish with hydration and post-care advice. 

Notable ingredients: Charcoal (absorbs impurities, detoxifies pores) and black seed (antioxidant-rich, reduces congestion and uneven tone) are commonly used for their synergistic effects. 

woman looking at mirror

What Is Desincrustation? 

Desincrustation is a deep cleansing treatment that's effective in preparing oily or congested skin for extractions. It uses alkaline-based products to soften and break down sebum and keratin inside the skin's follicles. Often accompanied by a gentle massage, the technique removes built-up sebum, debris and other impurities, keeping pores clear, reducing acne and improving skin texture and health. 

Now, let's explore the advantages desincrustation offers, which extend far beyond its immediate cleansing effects. 

The Benefits of Desincrustation  

Desincrustation offers numerous benefits for skin care, particularly for those with oily or congested skin types. In summary, this treatment: 

  • Softens & Breaks Down Sebum: Desincrustation helps break down the sebum that accumulates in the pores and contributes to the formation of blackheads and whiteheads. It prepares the skin for extractions by dilating pores and softening sebum. 
  • Enhances Skin Care Absorption: Desincrustation prepares the skin for subsequent treatments. By thoroughly cleansing and opening up the pores, the treatment ensures that skin care products penetrate deeper and work more effectively.  
  • Improves Skin Texture & Appearance: Desincrustation is much more than a cleansing process; it plays a crucial role in enhancing the skin's overall appearance. By effectively removing impurities and excess oil, this treatment can lead to smoother-looking skin. It directly addresses and reduces skin congestion, paving the way for a visibly clearer, more vibrant skin tone.  

Desincrustation enhances skin texture and appearance, but it's not for everyone. Let’s look at when this treatment should be avoided. 

When to Avoid Desincrustation 

For spa professionals, it's critical to conduct a detailed skin assessment before proceeding with desincrustation. This treatment is not recommended for certain skin conditions due to the risks of exacerbating skin issues. Key conditions include:  

  • Cystic & Inflammatory Acne: The intense cleansing process can aggravate these conditions, leading to increased inflammation. 
  • Rosacea: The treatment's intensity might aggravate (or increase?) the redness and sensitivity associated with rosacea.  
  • Irritated Skin or Open Wounds: Desincrustation can cause further irritation or even infection in these cases. 
  • Eczema & Psoriasis: The process might trigger flareups or worsen symptoms in these skin disorders. 

Understanding these exceptions is essential for ensuring the safety and effectiveness of the treatment for each client. Be sure to connect with an Eminence Organics Team Member for comprehensive training on using this professional product.  

Professional Tips for Effective Practice 

Desincrustation is a key technique for spa professionals to master, offering a path to improved skin health and appearance for clients. Understanding and applying this method effectively can make a significant difference in your clients’ skin. 

  • Start with a thorough cleansing to remove surface dirt and oil. 
  • Choose a desincrustation solution such as our Charcoal & Black Seed Pro Desincrustation Gel. Apply 2-3 pumps directly to the area to be treated using a fan brush or fingertips and leave on for 3 minutes. Remove any excess gel with warm water. If your spa does not perform extractions or if extractions are not appropriate for the client, the desincrustation gel can still be used as a second cleanse on the main areas of congestion to help break down sebum that accumulates in pores.  
  • Be cautious not to overdo the massage to prevent skin irritation. 
  • Ensure complete removal of the solution and follow up with hydration. 
  • Advise your clients on post-treatment care, including avoiding harsh soaps and unnecessary face touching. 
"When combined in desincrustation treatments, charcoal and black seed offer a powerful dual-action approach to skin care."

Why Pores Love Charcoal & Black Seed 

As a spa professional, you may be wondering about the typical ingredients in desincrustation products. Charcoal has long been celebrated for its properties as a tried-and-true detox ingredient for the skin, useful for targeting congested pores. Its ability to absorb impurities and unclog pores makes it an essential ingredient in skin care, particularly for desincrustation treatments. 

Another potent ingredient is black seed, or Nigella sativa, known for its antioxidant properties and omega fatty acids. In desincrustation treatments, black seed is valued for its ability to cleanse deeply, even out skin tone and reduce pore clogging, complementing the effects of charcoal. 

When combined in desincrustation treatments, charcoal and black seed offer a powerful dual-action approach to skin care. Charcoal works to detox and clear the skin of impurities, while black seed targets the appearance of dark spots and pore congestion. This synergistic combination leads to a more comprehensive and effective treatment for achieving clear, balanced skin.  

Together, charcoal and black seed are a formidable pair in addressing skin congestion and impurities. These ingredients are not only beneficial in professional spa treatments but also in complementary at-home skin care products, allowing for consistent care in managing pore congestion and maintaining skin health. Take a look at the infographic below that outlines some of the ingredient benefits found in our Charcoal & Black Seed Pro Desincrustation Gel.

All Your Questions Answered 

Is desincrustation safe for all skin types?  

No. While it is effective for oily and congested skin, desincrustation should be avoided if you have cystic or inflamed acne, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis, open wounds or irritated skin. A skin consultation is recommended before treatment. 

How often should desincrustation be performed?  

Most professionals recommend desincrustation every 3–4 weeks, depending on skin type and condition. Overuse can compromise the skin barrier, so frequency should be tailored to individual needs. 

Can I do desincrustation at home? 

Eminence Organics’ Charcoal & Black Seed Pro Desincrustation Gel is a professional-use product and should only be applied by a licensed esthetician. While some milder at-home alternatives exist, professional supervision ensures safety and results. 

What ingredients are commonly used in desincrustation treatments? 

Eminence Organics highlights ingredients such as Binchotan charcoal to absorb impurities, black seed oil for antioxidants and omega fatty acids and sodium bicarbonate to soften sebum and clear congestion. 

Will desincrustation remove blackheads and whiteheads? 

Yes. By softening and loosening sebum, desincrustation makes it easier for professionals to extract blackheads and whiteheads safely and effectively. 

What happens after desincrustation? Post-care tips? 

After treatment, the skin should be thoroughly cleansed of the solution, rebalanced with a toner and soothed with hydrating products. Clients should avoid harsh exfoliants, protect the skin with SPF and follow professional aftercare advice. 

Have you seen the transformative effects of charcoal and black seed in your spa treatments? Share your experiences with us in the comments below. Find out how to become an Eminence Organics Spa Partner here.

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